今週、日本のビスポーク靴職人、福田洋平さんから6足目を受け取りました。見事なブルゴーニュの緑青の継ぎ目のないホールカットは、フクダの彫りの深い木型の壮大な形を本当に引き立てます。ここにはたくさんの写真と美しさを紹介する映画があります.
福田洋平は、靴に興味のあるほとんどの男性に知られている名前です (詳しく知りたい場合は レポートはこちら、バイヤーズガイドはこちら a>) は、世界で最も有名なビスポーク シューズ メーカーの 1 つです。私は長年の顧客でしたが、今週、彼から 6 番目のペアを受け取りました。このシューズはシームレスなホールカット オックスフォードで、靴型の上に革のフルピースが引っ張られ、その後開口部が切り開かれています。近年人気急上昇中の製作難易度の高いモデル。福田洋平さんが提供を始めたばかりです。
これらの靴はいつものように見事に細工されており、シングル レザー ソール、12 spi (1 インチあたりのステッチ) ソール ステッチ、面取りされたウエスト、深みのあるバーガンディ パティーナで作られています。 for patina とのコラボレーション。確かに、彼らの大量の写真の下に、そして映画の一番下にある、真剣なヘッドターナーのペア。
Very nice wholecuts!
What a Christmas present!
What are your thoughts about how closely the shoe lacing sections should close? Now it is like a narrow “V”. Would it be even nicer with an “I” shape?
Jesper – Those are… very nice indeed. That little bit of patina work at the instep works very well as an extra little decoration.
To Sigurd – I think oxfords generally look a bit better with a slight v-gap in the lacing. The proportions can look a bit strange with no gap at all – sort of “squeezed in”
Sigurd: Thank you very much! I never want my gap at the laces to close fully, when new should ideally be between 1,5-0,5 cm so you have some give when the shoes stretch, and when worn in should always have at least a few mm left so there’s no risk that you pull them completely tight and can’t hold the foot in place properly.
Sam: Thanks a lot! Yeah, patina is lovely made.
Oh my giddy aunt!! Jesper, you’ve reached shoe Nirvana/shoe perfection (or as close to perfection as is possible on the earth?)….very, very nice indeed.
Aha, Jepser, that is a very logical way to haev some distance when new and then it can stretch.
Thanks!
Yes, awesome patina!
What leather? Baby calf?
Anthony Jones: Thank you! They are truly great.
Sigurd: They are made in a regular crust calf leather.
These would be difficult to wear. I think I would get a glass case
and put them up on a shelf in my office to look at. =)
Congratulations. Truly a work of art!
Marcus: It would be boring just to have them on display 🙂 Thanks!
Thank you for sharing these beautiful photos of a work of art. I feel ten feet tall just knowing they exist, can’t imagine what it’s like to wear them. Brilliant!
Z Lee: Thanks a lot!
Hi Jesper, congratulations on the fabulous shoes!!
Btw, I notice that all your Yohei Fukuda shoes are chisel lasted and all your Main d’or shoes are round lasted. Is there any particular reason of that?
YW: Thanks a lot!
Well yes, I have one toe shape from each of the bespoke shoemakers I order from, so chiseled toe from Fukuda, round toe from Main d’Or, almond toe from Hiro Yanagimachi, and soft chiseled toe from Gaziano & Girling / Catella Shoemakers (the latter now going forward, since I will follow Daniel Wegan instead of using G&G now).
Maybe a weird question, but what “house shoe” do you use?
I’m thinking of buying the new yanko belgians that look awesome. Do you think it’s out of place?
Fernando: I don’t use house shoes, it’s very uncommon in Sweden. But I know a few others who have used Yanko’s Belgian loafers as that, and think they suit well, I can sure see why as they are really comfy and informal.
How interesting. Dont your feet get cold? Thank you for the recommendation
Fernando: Since it’s a cold country, we have excellent isolation and heating systems in the houses. So no, no problem with cold feet (and we do wear socks) 🙂
Jesper
Great photos of beautiful shoes. What are your thoughts about how YF ready to wear shoes compare in terms of fit, finishing, and materials to SB tradizione range?