手作業でヒールを構築し、均一な水平層、完全に平らな側面、アッパーに向かって滑らかできちんとしたエッジで密接にカットするなど、完璧にすることは非常に困難です.上記の靴を作ったCatella ShoemakerのDaniel Weganよりも優れている人は世界でもほとんどいません.
よくできたオーダーメイドの靴を見ると、本当に洗練されたものにするのがより難しいことがわかることがいくつかあります。ウェルトの仕上げが 1 つ、ソール エッジの仕上げが 1 つ、ヒールの仕上げが 3 つ目です。私はこれらのものが多くのメーカーで何度も作られているのを見てワークショップに参加してきました.手、道具、素材が完全に共生。
これらの靴の詳細については、この記事をご覧ください。 .
![ニュース - キウイ[Kiwi]・シューケアの終焉？](https://i0.wp.com/jp.shoegazing.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Kiwi3-Klackbaren-i-Gavle-kopiera.jpg?fit=1200%2C691&ssl=1&resize=40%2C40){kind=small}
When I was speaking with Janne Melkersson we discussed the tapered heel, He mentioned it wasn’t really a thing with bespoke shoemaking in the 80’s, 90’s, and early 2000’s, it was all square. To be honest, I do prefer square ( if that’s the correct term), It’s interesting that the tapered heel trend has very much stuck, yes it’s to differentiate, I guess that why I’m, not a fan of the look, it’s like sending out cheesy signals that’s your suit jacket is bespoke. . I think this has all come about its a result of 20 years of inspiring shoemakers looking at online images of Spanishing looking heels made in Japan, lol. and now younger shoemaking think is a core of bespoke shoemaking and now It’s very much here to stay. Yes, it makes a fine shoe and slightly feminine, but I wish the square heel was loved and used more.
Don: Yeah, a few decades straight heels was more common on bespoke, but for 70+ decades before that tapered heels was more common (both have always existed, and types of both have varied in fashion). Personally I usually prefer the type of heel that these shoes above has, with slightly tapered back and straight sides, it’s one of the more common heel types among bespoke both today and looking back in the past. But it’s much down to type of shoe, for some I go straight heel edges, some fully tapered. But usually this combined type. I’m not a fan of the very tapered ones though, it looks to off on most shoes IMO.
Jesper, You have trumped me with a bigger overlook.
Allan Donnely: That’s what I’m here for 🙂