クラシックな紳士靴について語るとき、「大げさな」スタイルについて語るのは少し奇妙な感じがするものです。 スプリット・トゥ・ダービーは、数年前から販売されていますが、いまだに人気が衰えることはありません。
ウェルトの靴が好きで、ずっとオックスフォードを中心に履いてきたけど、そういう服装が多くなってきて、もっとフォーマルでないものが欲しいという人にぴったりな感じです」。 このモデルは日本のセイジ・マッカーシーによるもので、このようなエンボスグレインレザーやスエードのモデルは、現在最もホットなものです。 2010年代に最も注目を集めたダブルモンクストラップとは異なり、スプリットトゥダービーはより繊細な靴であるため、モンクストラップのようにファッションシューズにはなっていない(例えば、H&MやZaraではダブルモンクはたくさん売っているがスプリットトゥダービーはまだ見られない)ため、ピークを過ぎた後も、いつかはもっと大きく残っていくことだろう。
スプリットトゥダービーの興味深い歴史については、こちらの記事で詳しくご紹介しています。
I’ve become more and more enamoured with the split toe derby over my shoe journey. I have 4 pair of split toes at the moment and fell like the design hits the spot: not many men outside of those who love quality welted ‘proper’ shoes, I suspect, own a pair. Perhaps the generous fit of the open lacing, or the potential to add an apron, of the fact you’ll likely be the only person wearing the style has brought me to love the split toe – certainly over the monk strap. You are right: I haven’t seen the split toe derby in mainstream fashion shops…yet! I don’t think we will; certainly in the way double monks had their window of time.
Cheers
Anthony
Thanks for this, Jesper,
I love split toes for about a year split toe derby was all I collected. I also searched for split toe oxfords, which are fairly difficult to find for reasons I now understand. But I commissioned a couple of pair, then found a beautiful pair by A Testoni. I think they deserve the growing interest.
Anthony and Peter: Thanks for sharing your thoughts! Nice you dig the split toes.
The split toe is a shoe for shoe enthusiasts only. I think the uninitiated find them quite ugly. It takes time to appreciate the beauty of the split toe.
That’s not to say all split toe derbies are equal. I still think the Edward Green Dover on the 606 last is the finest looking example.
Ross, I have to agree on the Dovers. But I think the Meccariello Centution is also right up there also.
I agree Peter, they’re a beautiful shoe, but possibly not as versatile as the Dover in term of which outfits they look good with.
Who makes the split toe in at the start of this article? Reminds me of some of the Japanese greats, but am curious to know who it actually is.
GBS: As mentioned above, it’s Seiji McCarthy.